Great River, Great Lakes

The Confluence 

When I started this quest and this blog, I wanted to add more places to my set of outdoor achievements (you can read my first blog post here).  I look at my shelves and certain books I keep as touchstones to learnings and life moments.  How too to keep the experience of a day in the dunes, a week in the woods, a summer on a lake, or a lifetime in a place?  A nature preserve is a defined place, with a sign and legal boundaries, and usually something that can be comprehended in a day or two of exploring.  But more and more, I am confronting the existential challenge of how to know a place that is too big to experience in any easy or accessible way.  Recently, I found myself beyond the familiar Great Lakes, and I pondered anew what it takes to know a place.

The Mississippi River is perhaps the single most defining geographic feature in the middle of North America.  The waters from 32 States and two Canadian provinces, about 40 percent of the continental United States, drain down the Mississippi River into the Gulf of Mexico.  As it passes by New Orleans in mid-October, the River carries an average of about 400,000 cubic feet of water per second (cfs).  This is 3,605 times what the Shiawassee River carries through my hometown on a given day this time of year.  After almost 50 years of knowing and canoeing and working to protect the Shiawassee, I am beginning to have a sense of it as a place (read more here), but trying to know the Mississippi is not possible.

Still, I enthusiastically said "Yes" to a chance to experience the Mississippi and spend a day traveling on it from Alton, Illinois to St. Louis Missouri with a group of volunteer conservationists like myself, as well as some well-informed experts.  I came away with a rich natural experience, and while I still can't think of the Mississippi River as a place, I can now think of its a "whole system" that deserves our appreciation, care, and serious attention.  So too is the Great Lakes system.

Whole System Conservation has become the current leading edge of work at The Nature Conservancy and other agencies and organizations who are thinking about the protection of natural places and the promotion of a sustainable economy.  For 60 years The Nature Conservancy has evolved in its mission to protect nature and preserve life, starting with the application of new tools to take land protection to a bigger scale through the use of easements, leveraging limited public dollars, and by creating the world's largest conservation organization to identify, acquire, and steward the most important natural places.  Always guided by the best science, The Nature Conservancy undertook eco-regional planning to protect a network of preserves throughout first North America, and then other continents, and oceans.

It has become clear that to protect one place, we need to look beyond the boundaries of a preserve, park, or otherwise set-aside land.  Water and air, as well as flora and fauna, are not constrained by lines on a plat map, nor is pollution, invasive species, or threats that come from incompatible development.  We must think about the entire ecological--and economic and cultural--systems that encompasses each preserve we care about.  To keep a place healthy, the system it is a part of has to be healthy.

The confluence of the Missouri (left) and Mississippi (right)
Note the barge, a key service provided by the River

To be effective at whole system conservation one must keep three things in mind.  First, one needs to look at the dominant ecological functions and geographic features that define an ecosystem.  The Mississippi River is defined by the flow of water, its interaction with and from the surrounding land, and the movement of species up, down, and through the system.  Second, we need to think not just about places and species, but ecological services, such as clean water, that keeps the system healthy.  Finally, whole system conservation must keep the needs and role of people foremost in the development of any strategy or plan of action, because humanity now can have the biggest impact, good and/or bad, on any natural system.   You can read more about this conservation approach and download a concept paper at this link.

The Great Rivers and the Great Lakes are the types of whole systems The Nature Conservancy is committed to protecting.  The Mississippi River supports not only unique and diverse life forms, but also a thriving economy.  Barge traffic moves essential commodities up and down the River, and the level, course, and flow of the Mississippi has long been managed through dams, levees, dredging, and other massive engineering interventions.  The River has also always been a source of life, not only for aquatic and terrestial species, but also for human culture long before, and through, several waves of Euro-American settlement.  The challenge is to know and understand all of these many needs and factors, which are sometimes competing and sometimes complementary, and manage the whole system for the benefit of both nature and people.

Since 2005, The Nature Conservancy has worked not only on the Mississippi, but on several large river systems throughout the world.  The Great Rivers Partnership has developed better knowledge about these multi-factored systems, brought together stakeholders to address conservation needs, and allowed for a higher level of policy work and attention to protect these large water flows that define our homes.  The same approach is being taken for other large systems, most notably for me the Great Lakes, that cross state and national boundaries.  The goal is not necessarily more protected places, but a healthier system that protects more places.

The Confluence.  For me, a former geography student, amateur historian, and committed conservationist, the highlight of my recent trip was to pass by the confluence of the Missouri and  Mississippi Rivers, some 10 miles north of the Gateway Arch in St. Louis.  Having spent several years now thinking about watersheds, seeing the waters of so much of North America converge at one spot made a great impact, intellectually more so than visually.  On our journey we heard how the fertility and geography of the region of the confluence led to the development of a major pre-Columbian cultural and community centered on nearby Cahokia, that in 1200 AD was probably larger than any European city.   As well, I thought much about this one particular place as the preparation and starting point for Meriwether Lewis and William Clark and their Corps of Discovery that they led west from here in 1804 up the Missouri, across the continental divide, and then on to the Pacific Ocean.

It is difficult for one particular place to embody the larger geographic and cultural significance of a region, but the confluence did it for me.  The particular good news about this place is that many private and public conservation groups, including the Army Corps of Engineers, have worked to protect thousands of acres of wetlands, floodplain forests, and surrounding grasslands.  But we will not be successful if we work to save only the immediate places, even as compelling and valuable as the confluence is.  Instead, we need to think about the one place as the embodiment of the whole system we seek to protect and preserve.  The whole system must get our affection as well as the small place.

Saving A River: Paddling the Shiawassee

How do you preserve a river? Land trusts and environmental groups like The Nature Conservancy have a long and successful history of acquiring special places and protecting them through ownership, conservation easements, or real estate partnerships with public entities. This approach works well for land, but you cannot purchase a river. How then can we save a river, and other bodies of water?

For me, the question is an important one, because one river, the Shiawassee River, runs through my life. At about the age of 10 my family moved to a wooded lot above a park along the Shiawassee, and I spent my adolescence exploring the River and a tributary that flowed behind my house. I made frequent canoe trips down the Shiawassee and the skills I learned there took me on to to other rivers in Michigan and several wilderness expeditions to northern Canada. I have some strong memories of special trips on The Shiawassee with my family, friends, and then my children, and it is one of the places I return to either in mind or body to refresh my spirit. I started this blog with a post about the importance of places, and the Shiawassee River is one of the key places that connects me to the natural world. To quote the great writer Wallace Stegner, "if you don't know where you are, you don't know who you are."

"The Healthiest Warm Water River in Michigan" was what one scientist said while presenting data from a fish survey of the Shiawassee River. And indeed, the River does have a high diversity of aquatic life with not only 59 fish species, but also 12 species of freshwater mussels, and healthy populations of macroinvertebrates (i.e. bugs) as revealed by volunteer stream sampling. Unlike the spring-fed trout streams of Northern Michigan, the Shiawassee and other rivers of the Lower Peninsula are fed largely by surface run-off and thus have warmer water temperatures. Thus, the Shiawassee is appreciated for its smallmouth bass fishing.

The Shiawassee, which starts in a few small lakes and fens (a bog fed by groundwater) in Oakland and Livingston Counties, flows north to Saginaw Bay. It is in an interesting ecological zone where plant species from the south, such as the Kentucky Coffee Tree and Catalpa, overlap with northern trees like the White Pine. On one part of the River near Henderson, a signature Sycamore tree (the mascot of Indiana State) towers over one bend in the River; on the next bend a small stand of northern-dwelling Hemlock cover the banks.

On a recent canoe trip, I had several other reminders of the health of the Shiawassee: a large number and diversity of turtles sunning themselves on the shore or rocks, several different great blue herons patiently fishing, and--most dramatically--a pair of bald eagles near the Shiawassee Conservation Club. There have been increases in the number of eagles in the Great Lakes and the Shiawassee National Wildlife Refuge at the south end of Saginaw Bay. Now, they have come upstream not only on winter forays for fish in open water, but to nest.

The Shiawassee faces challenges, both from historic misuse and from some more persistent problems. Like many freshwater environments in the United States prior to the Clean Water Act, the Shiawassee struggled with an overload of poorly treated municipal sewage and industrial waste. Residential septic tanks along tributary streams also added to problems. Thanks to the investment of federal, state and local governments, major upgrades were made to the municipal wastewater treatment facilities along the Shiawassee and pollution dropped dramatically in the 1980s. The River still suffers when severe storm events cause an overflow of sewer effluent. When I look at the Shiawassee running clear, I always thank those leaders who had the wisdom to adopt, and fund, the Clean Water Act. Sadly, this keystone law is now under attack (read more here).  Infrastructure investments are still needed to put an end to sanitary sewage overflows.

The other negative legacy comes from several industrial operations that improperly disposed of wastes; in its history the Shiawassee has had fish advisories issued after spills and even one upstream stretch was a Superfund site. Fortunately, these pollution sources have been eliminated, again thanks to state and federal government. I am always amazed at the ability of rivers to cleanse themselves: the passage of time, the constant flowing of water, and the biological activities of flora and fauna can do much to restore a river. A paddle on the Shiawassee today will not reveal the problems of its past.

"We have met the enemy, and he is us," said the great philosopher Pogo, and he could be talking about the problems facing the Shiawassee today. The point sources of pollution, sewage plants and industries, have been largely cleaned up, but the River still suffers: too much sediment, too much fertilizer, and too much trash. These come mostly from how we treat the lawns in our backyards, the farm fields in our countryside, and the stormwater from our cities. So to prevent polluted run-off we need to make changes in how numerous individuals and property owners use the land that drains into the Shiawassee. This requires a broad-based and constant commitment.

As in other watersheds, several partners have come together to restore the Shiawassee: The Friends of the Shiawassee River conduct an annual clean-up, the Shiawassee Conservation District works with farmers to promote better land use practices, and The Nature Conservancy has helped provide strategic guidance and build local capacity. Recently funding from the US EPA's Great Lakes Restoration Initiative and other public and private sources has helped fund several projects to enhance the health of the Shiawassee River.

Too much water too fast may be the most intractable problem facing the Shiawassee and other rivers in the southern portions of the Great Lakes. Before settlement, much of the central area around Saginaw Bay consisted of marshes, wooded wetlands, and absorbent soils. When it rained, these areas soaked up water like a sponge and released it slowly into meandering streams that flowed to the Shiawassee. After the clearing of lumber (Michigan's White Pine boom began in the Saginaw Bay region), farmers went to work and dug ditches to provide drainage and make the area a rich agricultural resource that gave birth to Owosso and many other communities.

Today, drainage tile underlies much of the farmland and county drains carry run-off quickly to the River. This is good for farming, but creates rapid rises in the River which increase erosion, carry more sediment into and down the River, and alters habitats. When it has not rained in some time, the Shiawassee runs clear and shallow; after a storm, the flow increases sharply and the River turns brown with soil. Over time, this has made the Shiawassee a flatter, shallower stream and important fish feeding and breeding areas have been covered with silt. It also costs landowners money to continually dredge out county drains and fight erosion along their fields.

The Two-Stage Ditch may be part of a solution to the run-off challenges of the Shiawassee and other agricultural streams in the Great Lakes. Rather than the typical narrow ditch with a straight flow of water, the two-stage ditch is wide and allows a stream to curve back and forth. This allows for more habitat areas, short-term storage (and thus the slowing) of run-off, and lower maintenance costs. The Nature Conservancy has worked to design, promote and develop two-stage ditches in Indiana, Ohio, and Michigan, including one close to Owosso that was installed by the Shiawassee Conservation District. This approach not only serves the needs of farmers to drain agricultural lands, but also helps moderate the flow of rivers. It is part of the tools that will protect and restore rivers like the Shiawassee.

Can a river be preserved? Yes, but it requires not only funding for improvements like wastewater treatment plants and two stage ditches, but also policies and programs that work with landowners, farmers, and cities to reduce polluted runoff. A watershed strategy needs to coordinate the efforts of government agencies, non-profits, and private landowners to address the unique needs and circumstances of each river. And perhaps most importantly, the residents of the watershed, need to become engaged "place-holders" and advocate on behalf of the river. When we truly connect with, and hold dear, the place in which we live, then we begin to understand the connections in nature. And the key connection for a river is the one between land and water.

Canoeing on the Shiawassee is a special experience, and not only for someone who grew up on it. It is an opportunity to witness the restoration of a river. The Shiawassee is a healthy river, but only because of conscious stewardship from several players, from the federal government funding for sewage treatment plants to the volunteers who have pull out tires. Rivers have strong powers to restore themselves, but only if we work to correct past abuses and strive to prevent further damage. Paddle the Shiawassee and see the difference we can make.

How to visit. There are many great canoe spots along the Shiawassee, including the headwaters around Holly and Fenton. Further downstream, The Friends of the Shiawassee River have an excellent canoe guide that details paddling opportunities in the main stem from Byron to Parshallburg (just south of Chesaning). There is a map and a detailed guide that provides not only helpful paddling hints, but also information on the human and natural history of the Shiawassee. I most often get out on the River at Harmon Patridge Park (map here) on the north side of Owosso and paddle to Henderson Park or beyond. I also sometimes put in at Geeck Road Park near Bancroft Michigan (map here) and paddle to the dam site at Shiatown.

When to visit. The spring, early summer and fall are the best times to paddle the Shiawassee because there is more water flow. If a week or more goes by in July and August without rain, then low water levels will require the paddler to disembark and walk the canoe over and through sandbars or rock gardens. You can check the flow of the Shiawassee River at Owosso at this monitoring site run by the United States Geological Survey. A river level of 2 to 3 feet is usually sufficient; be cautious of flood events as the river becomes less predictable and overhanging trees can become hazard. My favorite time to venture forth is in the fall, when the colors of changing deciduous leaves make a trip particularly pleasurable.

(links updated 8/8/15)

Wildflower Walk at Nan Weston Preserve

One of the joys of living in the Great Lakes region is a springtime walk in the woods. After a cold winter and a wet spring, sunshine calls us out to explore and reconnect with the living world, and nothing celebrates rebirth more than colorful wildflowers poking through brown leaves and the sound of spring peepers. On Easter Sunday, April 24, my family made an outing to TNC's Nan Weston Preserve at Sharon Hollow near Manchester, and we were rewarded with an early showing (including the hepatica shown here). The floral display is just beginning and should be good for several weeks to come.

The Nan Weston Preserve reminds us of what Michigan once looked like, and contains some important lessons for what we can do to preserve and restore the ecology of the Great Lakes. Historically, much of lower Michigan, Indiana and Ohio contained mature beech-maple forests interspersed with wetlands and prairie openings. Now, the landscape is reversed, and most of the land is opened up by agricultural practices and the woods remain in smaller, too-isolated patches. Today, the preserve is 249 acres of mostly woods with several streams and pools scattered across the site along with a few open fields.

The topography of the south central Great Lakes region was shaped by the glaciers which left large moraines and small hillocks of dry soil with lowland wet areas in between, and one can readily see this landscape in the spring at Nan Weston Preserve. Before the trees leaf in, skunk cabbage and a few small wildflowers provide the only green. Pools of water and streams are dark on the landscape, and the bare grey trunks of trees provide vertical definition. Up above, warblers and other songbirds flit about.

Vernal pools are an important part of this place. In amongst the trees, small low spots collect the snowmelt and abundant spring rain. While some of these areas feed into streams, the smaller pools slowly drain into the soil, feeding Michigan's abundant groundwater table. Before the summer dry-up, these ponds provide an important breeding ground for amphibians that need water to reproduce. Salamanders, newts, toads, and frogs depend on these ephemeral wetlands, and in spring the chorus of spring peepers looking to attract a mate fills the woods. Sadly, the conversion of woods to farmland and residential sites often results in the filling in or drying up of these unique vernal pools. Fortunately, the sturdy boardwalks of the Preserve trail make it possible to view the plant and animal communities in these pools close up.

Water Quality of the pools and streams on site are important to breeding amphibians, but the Preserve and the surrounding landscape also influence the water quality of a much larger area. The River Raisin is found on the southern boundary of the Nan Weston Preserve and it is fed by waters from the area. The slow streams and undisturbed wetlands allow for filtration of water, the well established plant communities retain soil, and the deciduous forest shades the water and keeps it cool. Several research and data collection efforts show that this is among the healthiest and cleanest stretches of the River Raisin. To quote from a 2002 study of the area by The Nature Conservancy, "The forest also serves to buffer the river from surrounding land uses, and undoubtedly is an important factor in the maintenance of the high quality nature of the aquatic system in the mainstem." (A link to this and other reports can be found at the website of the hard-working River Raisin Watershed Council).

The River Raisin is a major tributary into western Lake Erie, and to protect and restore this portion of the Great Lakes we need to pay attention to the water that flows into it. And to ensure the cleanest water in streams and rivers, we need to pay attention to the land. Over time, the watershed of the River Raisin, like many watersheds in Michigan, has been converted from forests to farmlands, and this has increased the sediments, fertilizers, and pollutants flowing into our Great Lakes. To the degree we can preserve, or restore, wetlands and woodlands along our waterways, then we will be working to protect our great freshwater resources as well.

Thus, while we enjoy Nan Weston Preserve for the color of its woodland flowers and the sound of it amphibian inhabitants, it serves an important role in the larger effort to restore the Great Lakes. The family and friends of Nan Weston who made this preserve possible with their donations to The Nature Conservancy preserved a place, and it remains a special place to the many people who have explored it on their owns, with their families, or as part of a class. We recognize and photograph the plants and animals that live on the site, but just as important in the larger picture is the role that healthy landscapes play in creating healthy rivers and lakes.

Directions. To get to the site, head south on M-52 from Chelsea for 7.4 miles and turn right (west) on Pleasant Lake Road. Go 3.2 miles and turn right on Sharon Hollow Road and then turn left at Easudes Road. In less than one mile, the preserve will be on your left; park on the south side of the road. Here is a link to google maps.

(thanks to Anna Owens for the photographs)